Underwear Gets Organic Approval

A range of underwear supplied by mail order retailer Greenfibres is the first in the UK to be given the stamp of Organic approval by the Soil Association. This is the first step towards full UK Organic certification for the pioneering company, about to celebrate its 10th anniversary.

Other Greenfibres products to be Soil Association certified for the first time include a range of organic cotton towels and a selection of organic cotton socks.

While most people have some idea of the reasons why organic food might be better for us and the environment, the idea of buying organic clothes is not one that occurs to many of us.

Gabriela Lana, co-director of Greenfibres, says, "The textiles industry causes a great deal of pollution and has rather dubious working practices. Organic clothing is another logical step towards living an ethical and eco-friendly life. Organic clothes are just the latest development for those people interested in a sustainable future."

The textile industry is indeed a major source of pollution, using about one quarter of the pesticides applied to crops worldwide. Some of these (such as organophosphates, pyrethroids, carbamates and organochlorines) have been associated with cancer, birth defects, and hormonal disruption. To grow the cotton for one T-shirt, around 150 grams of pesticides and synthetic fertiliser are used.

Synthetic chemicals are an integral part of textile manufacturing (including bleaching, dying, and finishing) and are use at all stages of conventional textile manufacturing. Over 2,500 are used, from anticreasing and anistatic agents to flame retardants and whitening agents. Fabrics that are labelled "wrinkle-resistant" are usually treated with a formaldehyde resin. These include no-iron sheets and bedding, curtains, sleep wear — any woven fabric, but especially polyester/cotton blends, marketed as "permanent press" or "easy care".

Organic textiles are derived from crops grown according to strict organic standards and no harmful chemicals are used in their processing.

All Greenfibres Organic products are certified by one of the major European certification agencies, which include Bioland (Germany), Demeter (Germany) and SKAL (Netherlands), and they are very pleased Soil Association certified garments can now be added to the list.

William Lana summs up by saying, "Ethical consumers are starting to make their voices heard and products from food and drink to skincare and textiles are increasingly becoming available as in Soil Association quality. This is good news for farmers, good news for innovative companies and good news for the planet. We're very excited to be part of this velvet revolution where ethical consumers - through the hundreds of small decisions taken each day - are starting to define a new operating agenda. Greenfibres having Soil Association certified underwear is exciting, but the big story is people taking responsibility for the way the live their lives!"

NOTES

1. William Lana, co-director of Greenfibres, is chair of the Soil Association's Textiles Standards Committee

2. William and Gabriela Lana started Greenfibres from their sitting room in 1996. Turnover this year is expected to exceed £1M

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

About Soil Association Organic Textiles Standards
(from SA web site)

The standards cover the processing and manufacture of all natural fibres including leather and skins. The manufacturing of organic textiles uses methods that ensure minimal damage to humans and the environment. All inputs must be assessed on their biodegradability and their toxicity to fish, algae and water fleas. In addition, inputs are not allowed if it is suspected, or proven, that the chemicals or processes used can cause cancer, birth defects or changes to reproductive organs. Suspected or proven allergens are also banned.

The conditions under which organic fibres can be grown are covered in existing organic standards. The use of herbicides is prohibited and artificial pesticides are severely restricted. All animals will be reared to organic standards and no genetically modified (GM) inputs are allowed.

Other organisations certifying organic textiles
A number of other organisations currently certify organic textiles, but the Soil Association is the first UK certifier to do so.

Other labels you might see on textiles include KRAV (Sweden), Demeter (Germany), IVN - International Association of Natural Textile Manufacturers (Germany), SKAL (Holland). There are other labels such as Agrocel (India) which are trade organisations as opposed to independent certifiers.

In developing our standards we reviewed all those currently available to ensure we captured the best and most appropriate standards from elsewhere. In particular we worked within the criteria laid down by IFOAM regarding toxicity (to humans and wildlife) and biodegradability when deciding which chemicals and processes are acceptable. IFOAM is the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements – an international umbrella organisation for organic standards. The Soil Association is the only UK certifier that is accredited by IFOAM.

For a garment to be labelled organic by the Soil Association, raw materials must contain at least 95% organic materials – excluding accessories such as buttons and zips. The remaining 5% can be made up of a limited range of non-organic fibres if insufficient organic material is available. If an item contains 70% - 94% organic materials by weight, it must be labelled “made with xx% organic materials.”


QUOTES

From Soil Association web site:

"According to the WHO, 20,000 deaths occur in developing countries each year from poisoning by agricultural pesticides used on crops, of which many, due to their relative toxicity, can be attributed to cotton. In Benin in West Africa, 24 people died as a result of poisoning from cotton pesticides in 2000 – this included 11 children under the age of 10."


RESOURCES

Greenfibres - www.greenfibres.com
99 High Street, Totnes, Devon TQ9 5PF
01803 868001